It hurts. While men are tattooed, their friends usually hold them still, grinning in the way we all do when faced with someone else's pain.
Every year, some 6,000 people gather at Bang Phra temple near Bangkok. They come to be blessed and to be tattooed. During a religious ceremony in the morning, many of them are possessed by spirits. They become different animals, depending on what tattoos they have on their bodies.